Monday, June 26, 2017

"The heaviest rains I ever saw."



CCVII



Fred Noonan’s Nav Chart for Dakar (now NGA 104)


The light rain that had spattered the windscreens when the Electra lifted off from Natal turned into a driving rainstorm that lay squarely between the two continents of South America and Africa. Amelia tried everything to fly out of the blinding sheets of rain, but the cloud bottoms lay uncomfortably close to the sea and the cloud tops lay above the Electra’s ceiling. Fortunately, there was nothing to hit in midair, but the feeling of being inside with no outside was disorienting.  

Correction --- there wasn’t much to hit. The Hindenburg had exploded over Lakehurst, New Jersey just the month before and so the Graf Zeppelin, which would otherwise be transiting the route to Recife, was grounded (it would fly to South America again, but only a few times; because the public felt endangered on airships the route would never again be profitable for lighter-than-air-craft). But there were still the plodding Air France Latecoere flying boats making the crossing loaded with mail but without passengers. Earhart actually managed to sight the Late in the distance at one point, but could not raise the plane by radio. She put it down to the bad weather, although in retrospect, the failure to reach the pilot of the Late might have been a cause for greater concern since this was the first attempt she’d made to reach anyone on any wavelength other than the usual Pan American Airways radio frequencies.  There is no record that the Late heard her.* 

The weather also made it impossible for Fred to take any celestial sights and he had to rely on his impressive dead reckoning skills. 

For some reason that was never explained afterward, Earhart chose to ignore Noonan’s calculations and follow her instinct across the Narrows. Whether this was her way of testing Noonan’s abilities under pressure or whether she was just being contrary, she insisted that the plane was off course for Dakar, and adjusted her flight path according to her own instincts. 

Noonan apparently didn’t argue. He merely told her that she would be 163 miles north of Dakar when she crossed the coast and would make landfall at the little town of St-Louis. 

And it was so. They landed at St-Louis precisely as predicted to find that they had made the crossing in thirteen hours and twelve minutes, a new world’s record, and this, she said, “in the heaviest rains I ever saw.” She was gracious enough, when cabling home of her arrival in Africa, to admit that she had erred by not following Noonan’s navigational instructions, but as to what gripped her to do so no one now will ever know.  It was a bad augury for what eventually transpired, the disappearance of them both.

Her former navigator, Captain Harry Manning perhaps had it right when he characterized her sharply as “a bit of a prima donna.”





*In her posthumous memoir of the Worldflight, Amelia Earhart: The Last Flight she averred that communications with the Air France mail plane were impossible because the Latecoeres only had telegraph keys; when writing this she seemed to have forgotten that the Electra had a telegraphy system as well as signal and voice radio capabilities.



Friday, June 23, 2017

Bem vindo ao Brasil



CCVI

Amelia Earhart displayed the usual ignorance of Americans when it came to Fortaleza, Brazil. She knew --- or thought she knew --- more about Natal, which was the easternmost point in the Americas and the logical place where transatlantic flights hopped across the Atlantic Narrows --- “Narrow” being a relative term, since the flight between Natal, Brazil, and Dakar, French West Africa (now Senegal) is 1,866 miles. 

But Fortaleza came as a shock. Expecting a jungle outpost under the eaves of the Amazon rainforest, Earhart was utterly surprised to discover that Fortaleza was a bustling, modern city of 100,000 souls even in 1937. 

Brazil overall may have surprised her. A huge nation, the size of the Lower 48 continguous United States, much of the interior is covered by the vast Amazon rainforest, though regions of grassland and hill country also cover hundreds of thousands of square miles. In 1937, every important city lay along the coast of what is the largest country in South America.

Having crossed the Equator (the first of several times on the Worldflight) Amelia received the honorary title of “Shellback” (Noonan was already a long-time Shellback).



Fortaleza as seen from the air in 1937


Brazilian well-wishers gather ‘round the Flying Laboratory at Fortaleza

Her original destination for June 5th was the city of Belem, but, once again, driven by the need to be “on schedule” she sidelined Belem to go on to Fortaleza, where she decided to spend an extra day readying the big Electra for its transatlantic voyage, resting, writing, and (as always) leaving unnecessaries behind to be mailed home.  

She wrote of the stop:

Looking the way we did after only a week on the way, I hesitated to visualize what disgraceful tramps we'd be before the journey's end. ... Laundering for ourselves seemed as important as for the plane.  I was on my last shirt and had abandoned hope that the appearance of my slacks, or my shoes, ever again would be respectable.  

Her compulsion to constantly fly on had left her weary and ragged, and no doubt Noonan felt and looked the same way. Also, there was little doubt that a few hours apart might do them some good. 

So, it was not until June 7th that Earhart and Noonan pushed on to Natal. At Natal they experienced a light, persistent rain that soon turned to a storm that was to dog them all the way across the Atlantic.

It was a hop of less than 300 miles. Amelia looked forward to a “gas and go” across the Atlantic, but the rain and the need for updated weather reports meant another layover of several hours. The Electra lifted off in the small hours of the morning. Since there were no lights on the main paved runway at Natal, the Electra used an auxiliary grass field that Amelia and Fred paced out in the darkness to get some sense of its dimensions --- after a bumpy run-up they headed eastward across the Atlantic.  


Skiffs on the beach at Natal. A photograph taken by A.E.


The major cities of Brazil. Brasilia, the modern capital, was not founded until 1960. Until then, Rio de Janeiro was the capital and is still the largest city