CCXXII
On this map, circa 1937, the large area in
Empire Pink is Burma (and part of India); the smaller area is the Malay States,
at whose extreme southern end is Singapore. Thailand (here “Siam”) is in
yellow, while French Indochina is in blue. Note that Burma, Thailand and the
Malay States (today’s Malaysia) share the narrow Malay Peninsula and the Kra Isthmus. Singapore is
today an independent city-state
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June
20th dawned overcast and grey, but it was reasonable flying weather,
so the Electra lifted off for Bangkok, the capital of Thailand, or as Amelia
persisted in calling it a bit romantically, Siam.
Anna Leonowens. Famed as the “Anna” in “Anna
and The King” and the “I” in “The King and I” she led a peripatetic life that
Amelia Earhart might have recognized. She was also the aunt of the famed actor
Boris Karloff
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It
is not hard to imagine that her mind was focused on a legendary king and a
legendary Anglo-Indian governess named A. Leonowens. Amelia’s writing took on a
lyrical cast:
Moist clouds were our
companions as we left Rangoon the next morning, bound for Bangkok, Siam. . . .
A great range of mountains extends north and south along the western border of
Siam, separating it from the long arm of Burma that reaches down into the Malay
Peninsula. Through squally weather we climbed to 8,000 feet and more, topping
this mountain barrier. On its eastern flanks the clouds broke and there
stretched before us a dark green forest splashed with patches of bright color,
cheerful even in the eyes of a pilot who recognized in all the limitless view
no landing place. The country fell away gradually to the east, the hills
flattening out into heavy jungle. Then we crossed the Mei Khlaung River [the
Mekong River], with little villages scattered along its banks, the wide expanses of
irrigated land burdened with rice crops.
The mountains of Thailand
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Touching
down in Bangkok, Earhart and Noonan stayed just long enough to refuel. She was
glad to see that her stocks of aviation fuel (marked STANDARD OIL with her own
name on the drums in bright yellow letters) had not been disturbed even so far
from home. As was typical, the field mechanics poured the gas into the tanks
through a cheesecloth filter in order to strain out any impurities. It was an
extra precaution that kept sludge from fouling the Electra’s engines, but it
was also a slight protection against tampering; from here on out, concern about
Japanese sabotage was a remote but real consideration; Noonan had a stock of more-or-less
true stories about “Japs” messing with Pan Am’s navigational equipment and
rigging traps in the landing paths of Clippers (at least Japanese had been
blamed and arrested as the likely suspects). The Orient seemed exotic to
Earhart and Noonan, but, typical of their time they feared the “Yellow Peril,”
and one “slanty-eyed gook” looked much the same as any other to their
white-bred eyes. They quickly lifted off for Singapore, the major British
possession in this corner of the world.*
A rice paddy in Thailand
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*Earhart
and Noonan were both born in the Victorian Age and were undoubtedly raised on
the idea of the “White Man’s Burden.” Amelia was very liberal, especially by
1937 standards. Still, the fear of Japanese sabotage was no bugbear but a very real
possibility as the once-friendly relations between the U.S. and the Empire of
the Sun had deteriorated sharply after Japan’s seizure of Manchuria from China in
1931. 1937 was to be a watershed year that put the two nations on the collision
course that led to Pearl Harbor, and Earhart and Noonan’s own fate may make up
a significant part of that watershed.
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